Passing through

We are moving south east down the almost strait and flat Shroppie. Only one lock at Wheaton Aston and 25 miles since the last back at Tyrley. There seems to be more boats gathering at Wheaton Aston. The local garage sells cheap diesel for boats and it takes an age to get past them all slowly as we do.

The boats are on both sides of the relatively wide canal and the owners on the 'private' side are busy constructing landing stages with their boats tied to the trees. Some of the boats are unkempt, covered in leaves and green with algae. Many with no name or licence displayed.

We turned left to go north on the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal. Soon passing through the 'narrows'. The canal here is a narrow channel cut into the rock base. Several passing places enabled at least 3 boats to pass as we went through.

Tyrley Locks and cutting

The locks south of town take the canal up a deep cutting through rocks. It would have been hard work chipping away all that rock with hammer and chisel back in 1846. The cutting is now covered with huge trees which are clinging to the rocky edge. The canal continues for two miles through a narrow tree covered cutting till it reaches Cheswardine. We continued to Shebdon Embankment where we met John & Jean on Omega. Next day we got to Gnosall in light drizzle. Had intended to go further but it remained damp most of the day.

Market Drayton

We approached from the north and stopped on the 5 day moorings before Lords Bridge. Don't quite understand why BW invite boaters to moor at 'Visitor Moorings' only to find they are not deep enough! Next day we walked into town to 'enjoy' the market day. Fruit and veg in abundance. Ann got a new bag.

Back at the boat we set about placing an order to Tesco on the net. The first thing you need is a local post code so we used Ted's Boat Yard which we happened to have. Then go to Street Map to find a suitable road for the delivery. Pity you then cannot find a more suitable post code. Our instructions for the driver enabled him to find us from Stoke on Trent without resorting to a phone call.

Our friends John & Sue invited us to their house for a cup of tea and a chat. They told us that 'Ted's Boat Yard is to close. Shame cos their diesel was only 38.5p! Apparently they cannot afford the rent since it has been increased. A café and canal ware shop has already left. There are plans for a new housing estate and a 'Boat Share' operation is moving in.

A Ghost ?

At the top of the Adderley Locks and past bridge 66 we entered Brownhills Wood. It was so thick the suns rays found their way past the branches producing an eerie feel. It felt cooler in the shade. A lonely fisherman sat there on the tow path. Ann and Molly passed by the man who spoke but she did not hear the words. Somebody was cutting the grass using a noisy machine. He was dressed in protective mask and goggles so all you could see was his glowing eyes. Which one was the ghost which is known to haunt these woods? As I passed the fisherman I asked if he had ever seen the ghost. I heard his reply as the grass cutter had passed on. "It's too noisy for ghosts" he said.

Barbridge Junction

Here the Middlewich branch ends at a 'T' junction with the Shropshire Union. Approaching slowly with Ann at the bow checking for boats. There are two at the water point on the left and two more passing them. One is trying to overtake and the other is wanting to turn into the branch where we are coming from. "Where are you going?" he asked gruffly. We had to come out of the narrow junction before they could go in. Ann pointed left and we slowly and carefully moved across their bow and Ann jumped off on the right bank. There is just enough room now to pass in silence. "It's the August rush hour"! So on to the Shroppie going slowly past moored boats with large gaps between them. We found a place to stop further on.

Barbridge Junction

Here the Midlewich branch ends at a 'T' junction with the Shropshire Union. Approaching slowly with Ann at the bow checking for boats. There are two at the water point on the left and two more passing them. One is trying to overtake and the other is wanting to turn into the branch where we are coming from. "Where are you going?" he asked gruffly. We had to come out of the narrow junction before they could go in. Ann pointed left and we slowly and carefully moved across their bow and Ann jumped off on the right bank. There is just enough room now to pass in silence. "It's the August rush hour"! So on to the Shroppie going slowly past moored boats with large gaps between them. We found a place to stop further on.

Boats and Moorings

There are people who invest their money in boats. New narrow boats are being produced at a high rate. The only problem is that the supply of moorings is not keeping up with the demand. BW and public enterprise are creating many new marinas but finding suitable places 'off the cut' and getting planning permission takes time. Some boaters are able to travel around the canal system and don't need a mooring.

There are also people looking for cheap second hand boats to live on. They cannot afford to buy a house these days. BW and private land owners provide moorings 'on the cut'. Some boats taking up space on the canal don’t display a licence. BW are not really doing enough to control this growing situation.

Locking down

Back on the Macclesfield canal we stopped at High Lane. Shops and a surgery are here so we booked in as 'Temporary Patients' and got checked over. We are ok with the treatment we are getting so on we go feeling good. So on then to Gurnett for the night. Then after getting filled up with water went down the 12 locks at Bosley. It is getting busy now with at least 10 boats coming up so most locks were ready for us with a boat coming out. Grand views across the valley as we leave the foothills of the Pennines.

After a night at the lower level we continued to the end of the Macclesfield and stopped in the rusty red water of the Trent and Mersey. Now a long stretch with loads of locks between Stoke on Trent and Middlewich with 32 locks in 12 miles. There are several small places to pick up supplies on the way down. Still busy with boaters coming up and helping at the locks. These are single locks which come in pairs. But often one of the pair has been left derelict. Some of the lock gates have been repainted but others have been put out of use. It seems that BW are not spending our money effectively.

A hold up

So after a few days enjoying the scene in Derbyshire we left. Further on a man ran round a bent waving frantically. "Stop here, there's a tree down". Sure enough just round the bend was a queue of 4 boats. Two lovely huge willows had fallen across the canal and the branches were blocking the tow path as well. A 'Black Prince' hire boat was first in line and had called BW. They had also rang the hire company to say they may be back late. They only had 2 days to get back to Stoke on Trent, a full 48 lock miles away. We enjoy travelling at about 10 lock miles a day. So they are pushing it. The canals are better seen at the slower pace. The men from BW had cleared enough to pass by late afternoon and all the boats moved off very quickly. We stayed the night.

Peak Forest Canal

Moved on slowly through the county of Cheshire for a few miles to reach Marple. Now we are in Derbyshire, and join the Peak Forest Canal. Turn south east and follow the River Goyt with it's wonderful views across the valley. After lifting and swinging several bridges we reach Bugsworth Basin. Now full of water after British Waterways found a leak and made it all water tight.

Here we met Mike & Liz again.  This time we offered a cupper on our boat.

Bugsworth Basin is a scheduled ancient monument. An industrial archaeological site.  The site comprising several basins and arms was opened in 1776. Lime stone was bought down from the Peak District and burnt in several kilns here. By the 1880's the industry had grown into a major complex of basins, arms and wharfs and become one of the largest and busiest inland ports in this country. Coal was bought in and lime taken out in narrow boats down the Peak Forest Canal.

Now it is a wonderful site for boats to moor and boaters to enjoy the view. The stone bridges, walls and old rail sleepers providing interest.  By the time we left there were at least 20 boats here.

The Macclesfield

It was back in 2002 that we first came up this canal and we had forgotten how pretty it was. The Cheshire country side is all hills and valleys. Providing grand views as the canal crosses a valley. The bridges are all made of large blocks of stone as are the 12 locks at Bosley. Much of the canal is lined with trees. Having got up the locks we are now 518 feet above sea level. We passed the old Hovis mill at Macclesfield and got to Fourlane Ends.

Here we met a couple who live on their boat and had got in touch through the internet. "Now I know you are not supposed to meet people on the internet but Mike & Liz are OK". They have a boat called 'Snecklifter' and two dogs. One is a Jack Russell called Molly! The two Mollies got on so well together that they both disappeared in to 'Snecklifter'. We were given a cup of tea and later went to the local pub. It is great when you meet such friendly boaters. By the weekend we had moved on a few miles to Higher Pointon. A marina and a mile of moored boats line the canal. We stay here for a quiet but damp weekend.

Clarence Mill.

Low Bridges then a Tunnel

Low bridges, bone & flint

Two very low bridges were scraped under, "mind your head", to reach the locks taking us down to the end of the Caldon Canal.  The flowers kept their heads!

We looked round the Bone & Flint Mill Museum. Built for Jesse Shirley in 1857 to supply ground bone and flint for the pottery industry. The mill at Cheddleton was water powered but here a beam steam engine provides the power. Fred Dibner opened the museum some time ago. A modern factory took over the grinding in 1972.

To the tunnel

Set off next day and stopped at Westport Lake Park where super new mooring were inviting. Took a good walk round the huge lake which had plenty of wild birds to see. Picked up broken crockery like shells on the sea shore!

Not far to Harecastle tunnel where we had just missed an opening. An hour later we were the first and only boat to go north through the 2 mile (2926yards) tunnel. The canal water turned red from the iron deposits underground. We could see the other end as the doors closed behind us and huge fans blew air through. The noisy wind caused a fine mist to form and it was like going through a fog in a black hole. The old tunnel had sunk in the middle so head clearance was limited. Out the other end into the sunshine again. Not nearly so bad as we had imagined. Boats only go through one way at a time under the strict control of a 'Tunnel keeper' at each end. After scraping under those very low bridges on the Caldon Canal this was easy.

British Waterways Licence Increase

We have news that BW are proposing to increase our licence by 140%. A protest campaign is underway. Over a thousand boaters will be affected by this unwelcome news.

Back up,Tesco & Fine Feathers

We are heading back up out of the Churnet valley past the lime kilns at Consall Forge having carefully negotiated the low bridge by the railway station. Many people watching from the pub on the hill. Up through 2 locks at Cheddleton and stop by the old flint mill where James Brindley may have served as a Mill Wright.

Continue through the widening valley, under Hazelhurst Aqueduct where the Leek branch goes over, and up 3 locks to reach the summit again. The flat plain as we approach Endon a sharp contrast to the deep valley.

Stopped at Park Lane Bridge and placed our order to TESCO through the internet. The phone signal now being strong and reliable. Next day the van arrived and we were fully stocked up again.

That evening we had another of those 'all day breakfasts' at Fine Feathers. Got some more gas as well. Caldon Chandlery operates there and got me a new oil filter which is correct for my engine. It was different to the one fitted when the first service was carried out at Willow Wren in Rugby.

Remoteness

Down at Consall Forge we are on the river Churnet between two locks. Now out of touch as the phones, TV and radio, except Classic FM which has never let us down, could not find a signal. We are surrounded by trees in this lovely valley.

The canal turned into a one way street past the station which overhangs the water. Ann walks ahead with Molly to warn me of on coming boats. It is just possible to pass if the trees and bushes are not too thick. Down the lock and eventually reach Froghall moorings and turn.

Just round the corner a very low tunnel prevents most boats reaching the brand new facilities and empty basin. We asked about local shops but there are none. So we have discovered this canal. It proved to be quiet and peaceful and we had come prepared with a full fridge and well stocked up with food. Thankfully our tank of diesel is nowhere near empty but one bottle of gas is!

Leek Branch

Continued round onto the Leek Branch and stopped with 2 other boats at the Hazelhurst aqueduct. This canal crosses a narrow valley with a railway and the Caldon Canal passing under it.

Next day got away first and arrived at the end near Leek. Lucky to find a space as several boats were here already. The scenery was dramatic with the short winding canal clinging to the hillside through woods and past fields with stone walls. Then through a short stone tunnel to reach the end. We walked in the cool drizzle along the feeder that brings water down from Rudyard Lake.

Still Water Cottages

Caldon Canal

Turned sharp right onto the Caldon Canal at Etruria. This canal was built in 1779 to bring limestone and coal down to the potteries. It climes up through 9 locks to reach 484 ft. above sea level at Stockton Brook. At Hazelhurst it goes down through 8 locks for 6 miles to reach Froghall. The navigable canal is now 15 ½ miles but a further 15 miles to Uttoxeter was replaced by a railway in 1845. A branch joins the canal at Hazelhurst and continues at the same level to Leek where it picks up water from the Rudyard reservoir. The entire canal became un navigable by the early 1960's. Two new road bridges were build so low as to force us to stop and remove every thing off the roof again. Another new bridge further on had been built with sufficient clearance, presumably since the canal was reopened.

The Josiah Wedgwood Experience

We moored by bridge 104 on the Trent & Mersey and walked to the Visitor Centre and factory complex near Barlaston. When we left we had learnt and seen a lot about making artistic pottery. Back in the 1930's the old factory at Stoke on Trent was being undermined by the coal industry and eventually flooded by the canal. This new factory started production in 1940. We watched as girls applied white relief to blue jugs, automatic robot arms sticking handles to mugs and lumps of clay being transformed into plates by machine.

Josiah was apprenticed to a potter and he became an outstanding scientist, artist and engineer. He invented many revolutionary processes. One was to accurately measure the very high temperatures in the ovens. After many experiments he created green glaze. His creamware was later called Queen's Ware after he sold a full service to Catherine 11 of Russia in 1773. He also encouraged the building of canals which he used to great advantage.

Holiday Traffic

The canals were not built for fast motorised boats and is suffering from wash damage. Some holiday makers are showing a lack of respect these days. "We are on holiday so must drink as much as possible and get as far as possible". They seem to rush along even when passing moored boats. Presumably have not experienced mooring pins being pulled out or had their boat lurch backwards and forwards when a fast boat passes them.

Progress

Having got our order back at Tamworth we are now heading north again. Each year requires a general plan to explore favourite canals and discover new ones. We want to get through Stoke on Trent to turn off on to the Caldon Canal. Many boaters have encouraged us to go see it. It is only 15 miles long to Froghall but there are 17 locks. The summit being 484 feet above sea level.

Commercial traffic

The government have suggested that the waterways should become more commercial. Some of the wide canals & rivers may be able to cope but the lack of investment since the railways 'took over' means that it will take a long time to achieve. Perhaps the railways should take more. The commercial boats are much deeper in the water than the average pleasure boat. So the much needed dredging will have to be addressed.

The canals are increasingly being used for recreation these days by many user groups such as bikers, walkers, fisher men and boaters. It is a 'natural' environment now and is very relaxing for hard working people to enjoy. Commercialisation will destroy all this.